Day 10: Tetons to Glacier

We checked into the Ranch Inn last night after our epic hike out of the Tetons. Had the BEST shower ever. When I say best ever, I mean we found ourselves moaning uncontrollably as the hot water hit our filthy and crazy sore bodies. OH...and the Ranch Inn provides Bath & Body work products (lol) !!!! After our shower, we limped out of the hotel and  went and pigged out at what the locals call "The Brewpub" aka Snake River Brewery. 

This morning we woke up, still very sore and very hongrrryyyy. We got some coffee and really excellent pastry at a little French coffee shop in town called  Persephone Bakery. 
SOOOOO good, flakey and buttery croissants. NomNom. We then went and actually had more breakfast next door...I said we were hongry didnt I??  

We took our time packing and left Jackson Hole around 11:30 to head to Glacier. According to GPS it should have taken us about 8 hrs,  but we missed that mark big time.  More on that later.  As we were leaving we drove on the west side of the mountains and saw another storm roll in.  Glad we werent up there in Alaska Basin when it came through.

We drove through Montana and man...oh...man...I know why they call it Big Sky. It was a beautiful drive. We stopped off and stretched our legs by the Madison River in Montana.  The madison river valley was really a gorgeous place.  Must be flyfishing paradise because they were everywhere.

We continued on down the road and the Silver Steed climbed mountain pass after mountain pass after mountain pass.  A couple missed turns eventually had us headed over yet ANOTHER mountain pass straight into THIS guy

The storm chased us for about 200 miles across Montana.  It was nearing dark when it caught us west of Glacier.  So we decided to stop running and head west right into the heart of the beast. 

 Sheets of rain, lightning and straight line winds in the dark.   White knuckle driving all the way.   The icing on the cake was the free range cattle who chill in the middle of the road in the mountains approaching Glacier.  Real fun in dark, unfamiliar territory.
After what was easily the most frustrating and tiresome day of the trip, we ended up arriving at the Rising Sun Motor Inn around 10:50.  Close to a full 3 full hours later than we wanted to....yuck.    We were pretty frustrated, but glad we made it safe and glad to be in Glacier.

Day 9:Tetons Static Peak

So, as we've stated, we were to cross the Static Peak Divide on our way back across to the east side of the mountains, where we would descend 4 thousand feet.  Well, the reason they call it Static Peak is because, during the afternoon thunderstorms that frequent the Tetons, Static Peak is hit by lighting constantly.  The reason it is hit by lighting so much, as we found out from a park ranger, is because its FULL of iron ore.  So basically its a 10,700 ft lighting rod.  Its also above the treeline.  This makes it extremely dangerous to cross in a storm.

 Sometime during the evening it started a slow, steady rain.  I(Brett) woke up periodically throughout the night trying not to be concerned.... But, you'll understand why when I woke up at 5am to hard rain and numerous lighting bolts I broke out into a cold sweat and got nauseous.  I immediately started looking at the topographic map details to weigh out our options.  Climb 1k feet and cross the divide in the rain(IF it stops lightning), this is the shortest route @ around 13 miles.  Go back the way we came, which is much less exposed, but MUCH longer at over 20 miles.  Or hike off the west side of the mountain, a trail which I knew existed, but was much less familiar with.  My one hope was that the sun rising would raise the barometric pressure and clear out the storms.  I uneasily got out of the tent to check out the extent of our weather situation.

Definitely not what I wanted to see.

Honestly, Im not positive what we would had done had the weather not cleared, but sure enough the sun started breaking through the clouds and set up what would be easily the most beautiful weather we could have asked for.  So, we set off to climb out of the Basin.

As we got out of the basin you climb into a bowl full of worn away rock.  Its pretty insane

And then you start what is easily the scariest climb we have ever done.  The path at parts was no more than two feet wide and ,more often than not, covered in sketchy gravel and rocks.

At one point Im pretty sure I experienced a bit of vertigo.  We were nearing the tippy top when I accidentally looked down under my armpit and found myself staring down a narrow chute at a 2 thousand foot drop.  I got a bit dizzy and a good bit nauseous.  But, you can't just crumple, you have to just put it out of your mind and keep going.  So, we did....and yet again, the rewards were SO worth it.

After the elation of the top, we knew it was time for the long......sooooooooooo long.....descent.  All the way down switchback after switchback after switchback.  The trip down was probably gorgeous, but by half way down it was only pain.  

Eventually we made it to the bottom of mountain, which was also a return to the scene of the bear spotting.  Steph was on edge again, but much better.   We made it through the bear territory with no events and back up to the Phelps lake overlook.  Steph was relieved.  

I want to say that I can't really think of a time I've ever been more proud of my wife.  She was "no shit" scared when we saw that bear.  Literally torn up and frozen.  In all honesty I was sure the trip was over when we saw it because I was sure she would want to turn around.  I might even have been relieved myself.  But, after gathering herself(kinda =) ) she said she wanted to go on.  Her spirit would not be broken.  Its that red-headed fire that I love so much and that most people who know her love too.

As we made it back to the parking lot, we were pretty much broken.  Every step its own small misery.  We were stinky, dirty, tired, sore, and just plain done for.  We also escaped just as a thunderstorm rolled in and were being rained on.   It sounds like a terrible time right?  Honestly, I think that's part of the draw to backpacking.  When you put yourself in that kind situation, you push yourself so far beyond what you THINK you can do precisely because you have no other choice.  It is an amazing experience which cannot really be put into words.  

A look at the Tetons post-thunderstorm after hiking up and over them.  We entered the canyon on the left, hiked across to the right and then up and over the second highest peak on the right.  We'll never forget this one.

Day 8: Tetons Day 2

Well, we slept pretty well given the previous days events.  Woke up, had coffee and breakfast and then it was time to get started climbing the rest of the way out of Death Canyon and up onto the Death Canyon Shelf.  The hike out was absolutely gorgeous with mountain streams and lush fielda of wildflowers pretty much every step of the way.

And as we were leaving...

The climb up the shelf was about 800-1000 feet.  Great way to get the blood pumping in the morning.  The reward was well worth the hike.  The shelf goes on for four miles above Death Canyon and is really like another world

Steph on the Shelf

We made it across the shelf to Alaska Basin, the location of our second nights camp.  One of the things we'll always remember is how varied the terrain, rock formations, flora and fauna were as you move into and across the Tetons.  So much change over a 30 mile loop that no mile ever seemed to be the same....except for the thicket which seemed neverending.

Entering the Basin

Alaska Basin is actually right outside of Grand Tetons National Park and is a wilderness area so you can make camp wherever you find a spot.  We found what had to be the best spot in the whole area.  We had a Marmot neighbor and wildflowers that looked as though they had been intentionally planted by an expert gardener.  Probably the best campsite we've ever had.

Our neighbor the Marmot has quite the green thumb

Home for the night

What a great way to end what is probably the best day of hiking we've ever had.

Day 7: Tetons Day 1

So...today is the day!!! We woke up around 5:30 a.m. to head out for our 2 night 3 day backpacking trip through the Tetons.  We arrived at the trail head around 8:00, secured the car and put on our packs for the journey ahead.  About 2 miles in, there was a beautiful overlook at Phelps Lake. 

Phelps Lake Overlook

We stopped, admired the beauty and then continued on. 

I (Steph) have been having a hard time trying to relax and enjoy the trail because of my fear of running into a bear.  Well...as we left the overlook...not too far down the trail, there it was...a fresh pile of bear scat!!! NOOOOOO...  Not a good sign, but we continued on hoping Mr. Bear had done his morning business in the trail and gone elsewhere.  Nope......not a quarter mile down the trail I immediately froze with fear as Brett stopped and suddenly  called out "Hey Bear!!!", having heard some rustling in the thicket.  There it was, my worst fear about 20 feet away.   Brett told me to pull out my bear spray, and I did,  but I had no clue what I was going to do because I couldn't see past the tears and wouldn't be able to use the spray because my body was PARALYZED with fear. Heck, I probably would have done more damage to myself than the bear. 

In the end, the bear moved on up the hill (because it saw Brett bow up and it didn't want a piece(whatever...)) and just continued doing what it was doing...eating berries. I, however, could not stop crying and told Brett, "I can't do this." The thought of having to sleep out in the back country after seeing my biggest fear of this trip....SERIOUSLY. 

I continued on however,  but I was a "hot mess" for the rest of the day crying on an off.  At one point,  the thickets were well, so thick, that we started singing "99 bottles of bear...I mean beer...on the wall."  Singing and clapping is a good way to alert bears of your presence so that you can avoid surprising them (the real danger).

After the bear scare, we got on up the hill and stopped for water.

And then about 3 more miles of thicket....

THE THICKET!!!!

After a LOT of hiking we finally arrived at Death Canyon Campground and snagged an awesome campsite. It was an open, green meadow in the upper canyon with tons of wildflowers and instantly made me feel better(since it was not in the thicket).   We set up camp and fixed supper.  Surprisingly, mountain house chili mac...not too bad. 

We settled into bed fairly early, but not before a shot or two of whiskey went down the hatch!!!! 

Me holding on for dear life.

Day 6: The Tetons Loom

Yellowstone was magnificent, but on to the Grand Tetons!  

This is the hike we've been training for all year. No really....all year.   Weight lifting, cycling, cross-fit,  running, you name it we've done it to be physically prepared for this trip.  We enter into it with a good bit of apprehension because it includes some firsts:

- first two night stay in the back-country
-first backpacking experience in grizzly bear country
-first time hiking above the treeline
-first time doing over 4k feet of elevation gain and descent

The plan is to enter the mountains via the Death Canyon trail-head and spend our first night in Death Canyon(sounds like a swell place ehh?), then hike across the Death Canyon Shelf and spend night two in Alaska Basin.  We finish the trip by crossing the Static Peak Divide and descending the entire four THOUSAND feet on the last day.  For reference, the empire state building is 1224 ft tall.   Since we'll be doing this with 30-40 lbs on our backs, our knees are pleading with us not to go.  Stephanie in particular is not at all comfortable with the prospect of seeing a bear out on the trail (or outside our tent).

For anyone who hasn't experienced backcounty camping and backpacking....it can be pretty rough.   Actually it can be absolutely brutal, scary and painful. You have to carry everything you'll need in with you.  There is no water, no electricity, no cell service, no hard walls to protect you, and no help is on the way when you need it.  You walk miles and miles, climb bigger hills than you ever seen, crap in a hole you dug in the ground, and then to add insult to injury, you have to carry out your doo-doo paper(EEEEWWWWW).  

As we always tell people when talking about our first backpacking experience, when you've just hiked 10 miles into the middle of nowhere and you know you're out there for the night and no one is going to come to your rescue....and that sun starts to go down......its a very, very interesting feeling.  This is made much more interesting on this trip knowing that we're out there with black bear and grizzlies.  We will be bringing a flask of whiskey.

Anyway, as we were leaving Yellowstone this morning we crested a ridge, came down, and this was what we saw the first time we laid eyes on these enormous mountains.  What a first impression!
 

We finished the day by checking into our hotel room at Signal Mountain Lodge and trying to eat as many carbs as possible.  Unfortunately we screwed up and didnt allot NEARLY enough time to prepare food for the backpacking trip.  We need 3500(Steph) and 5500(Brett) calories a DAY for backpacking.  It took like two hours to pack gear and stuff all the food into that tiny bear canister.  There was a lot of swearing and it put us getting in bed at around 11:30 when we had to wake at 5:30 the next day.  NOT a good start.  

Nervous and tired we hit the sack.