Day 34-35: Carmel

Left out this morning with an end goal of Carmel-by-the-Sea....or just Carmel for us non fancy schmancy people (lol).  But first things first, we have to sign a new contract for the steed and check for maintenance and oil change requirements.  At this point after exactly 6000 miles we've become pretty attached to the ol' girl and we decided we were going to go out of our way to try and keep her for the rest of the trip. 
We luv da steed.

So, we stopped in Merced, CA at a random Enterprise and told them we wanted to keep the same van and were willing to wait if we needed to so that we can keep her.  Luckily she just needed an oil change and the Pep Boys was right next door so we  dropped her by and went and had some Mexican food while she was getting her oil changed.

On to Carmel we went.  We arrived in Carmel around 2pm and checked in to a cute little B-n-B called the Carmel Fireplace Inn.  Even though the ceilings were short and we called it our little hobbit hole it ended up being one of our favorite hotels of the trip.

As for the rest of Carmel, it was a bit fancy for our taste but the beach was very pretty and the food was excellent.  All in all we used this stay to simply veg out and relax.  It was a really nice way to decompress and a nice change of pace for us.

 

 

Day 30-33: Yosemite

Day 30: San Francisco to Yosemite


Left San Francisco this morning with much less drama than we arrived to.  Put the rack back up, packed it up and headed out for Yosemite.  Drove through an interesting mix of farmland, golden fields with dark black oak trees and into the mountains.  Picked up some fresh strawberries and cherry tomatoes on the way that were both delicious  .

We arrived in Tuolumne Meadows around sixish and made camp for the night.  Arriving so late we ended up having to pack our backpacks in the dark to prepare for a trip in the backcountry the next day.  The plan was to wake up in the morning and hike around 8 miles in via the Cathedral Lake trail head and out via Sunset.  After making camp and eating we decided we wanted to stay up for a bit and so made ourselves a fire, like we've done plenty of times this trip, but tonight was different.  The firewood was hardwood and the climate is extremely dry.  We doused the fire with a couple gallons of water before turning in for the night.  An hour or so later we get a "knock" on the tent door...."Folks!  Park ranger!  You're fire is going out here unattended."  Shocked, we both hopped up in the freezing cold dark, Brett in his boxers, and scrambled to put out the fire.  We ended up burying it with dirt since we had no more water on hand.  Embarrassing.  We felt really terrible about it because wildfires are no joke in this part of the country and we take fire responsibility very seriously.  We've just never had a fire come back after dumping two whole gallons of water on it.  A mistake we won't make again.   This was an unappreciated late night shock with a long backpacking trip getting started bright and early.  Ugg.


Day 31: Yosemite Backcountry
Woke up and left to go get backcountry permits around 9am.  A bit of a late start after the nights festivities.  Around 10am we jumped on the Yosemite Shuttle to get to the trailhead.  After getting on we were informed that the shuttle ride cost a dollar per person, but we had no cash.   Crap.  As we were getting off the tram the the driver said she'd cover for us because it was only a couple bucks.  Awesome we thought, but as we got underway we realized we'd have no money to ride back and we'd be miles away after a VERY strenuous day.  Ohh well, deal with that in a couple days.  
As we arrived at the trailhead we were met with a much more tiring climb than we had anticipated and both quickly realized that we were suffering from some mild elevation sickness.  We had driven from 10 ft above sea level to around 9000 ft in a day and were both feeling a little dizzy and were having a hard time catching our breathes.  A few miles in we started feeling more normal, but we definitely felt the elevation the whole day.  Luckily the scenery was gorgeous and kept our minds occupied and away from our suffering bodies.

The hike to camp was long and was capped off with a fairly long climb up to Sunset Lakes which was the location for our first nights camp.  When we arrived we took a moment to rest our puppy dogs by Lower Sunrise Lake and watch a young female duck swim happily in the glassy water.  We would both later comment to each other how beautiful she was there, living in a place so unspoiled.  Going about her daily business.

Leaving the lake we found an excellent campsite right on a bluff overlooking the setting sun. After eating dinner and taking a sponge bath in the sunset we decided to pull out Brett's sleeping bag and lay on a massive granite slab to watch the stars.  There was no moon so the Milky Way was in full bloom in the middle of thousands of stars.  We saw satellites pass by and a couple shooting stars before our eyes grew tired.  It was time for bed.

Day 32: Clouds Rest-Hike Out


Woke up this morning and had coffee and breakfast to fuel up for what we knew would be a pretty beastly hike.  Around 14 miles with a hike up to a peak called Clouds Rest which is supposed to be a bit scary and higher than Half Dome.  We decided that since the hike out would take us back by camp we decided to leave all our gear and pick it up on the way out.  This was a good move as it would mean 10 miles with much less weight on our backs.  
The hike up to Clouds Rest was everything we thought it would be.

And being on top of the peak was like being on top of the world.  Insane.

The trip across the narrowest part of the spine was kind of scary if you let your mind get away from you.....given that there were 1500 ft drops on both sides of a side walked sized path.  Pics don't really do this one justice.
On top of Clouds Rest we met a few nice people, one of which was a young woman we relayed our shuttle story to.  As we were leaving she offered us 5 dollars for a shuttle ride which we graciously accepted.  We then started the long hike back to camp.  When we arrived we took a minute to rest our feet because we were already tired and we had a nasty descent to do over around 3 miles.  Steph took a picture of her nasty ass feet for the record books.

As we made our way down switchback after switchback of hard granite we were starting to get seriously tired.  We had a nice surprise waiting for us at the end.  We knew we were ending at Tenaya Lake, we just didn't know how absolutely drop-dead gorgeous is was.

We got out and waded for about an hour, taking it all in.  Unfortunately while we were basking in the glory of the lake we were also missing the shuttle and there wouldn't be another one for an hour.  This was not what we wanted to hear because we were dog tired at this point.  After unsuccessfully trying to hitch hike we asked a random dude leaving the trailhead if he was heading to Tuolumne campground.  He tentatively said he was and so, after making sure it was ok, hopped in the car.  As it turns out he was just about to go for a dip in Tenaya right as we caught him, but was nice enough to take 20 minutes out of his day to give us a lift.  We kind of felt terrible and so insisted that he take the 5 dollars we were given on Clouds Rest as it was all the money we had on us.  Plus, we were given the money for a ride home and that's what it needed to go to.  He took the money and went on his way.
Arriving back at camp we grilled some hotdogs over the oak firewood and charcoal.  We were probably just really hungry but they tasted amazing.  We sat by the fire for a bit before dousing it with FOUR gallons of water and hitting the bed.

Day 33:  Yosemite Valley


We took our time getting up this morning to break camp and pack the car.  At Tuoulumne Meadows campground that was a bad move since it meant cars passing constantly and stirring up clouds of dust which seemed to permeate our nasal cavities.  This made for a very unpleasant experience and we could not get out of there quickly enough.
We arrived in the valley around 1:15 or so to check in to the lodge.  Since we didn't have much time to explore we decided to rent bikes and ride along the valley floor.

This was a nice way to see Yosemite Valley in a small amount of time.
After biking we took some MUCH needed showers and went to the lodge restaurant for a bite to eat.  We didn't stay up to late because we had an early appointment to square away a new rental agreement on the steed the next day.  
As for Yosemite, we will definitely be back during prime time weather when the waterfalls are running full force.  We could definitely see spending a whole week in the park because it has so much to offer.

Day 28-29: San Francisco

Day 28: San Francisco

Woke up this morning ready to go and see the city we worked so hard to get into.   We walked through Chinatown toward a restaurant called "The House" that we had made lunch reservations for.  If you're ever in San Francisco and like Asian food, this place is a must.  The house made warm wasabi noodles with grilled pork and kimche were maybe the single best things we've had this trip.  Absolute noodle perfection.  I want some right now.  After lunch we strolled through some nice little shops here and there on our way down to Fishermans' Wharf where we decided to rent bikes and ride down to the Golden Gate bridge and across it.  This was an excellent idea. The bay area is really a charming place with colorful buildings, dogs everywhere playing, beaches, boats, and all with the Golden Gate as a backdrop.  Truly a great part of the city.

On our way the the bridge we came across Fort Point after a wrong turn, but decided to go in after the park ranger told us it was the oldest military fort west of the Mississippi and that it was also one of the most well preserved.   Really cool place and definitely worth a visit.

Time to cross the Golden Gate bridge on bike.  This was super cool and we highly recommend it.  The experience of riding a bike up that high up above the ocean was kind of surreal.  It was SUPER windy and fairly cold.  Luckily we had brought our wind jackets unlike some other poor souls as they were made for these conditions.

After crossing back over it was time to mosey on back to the bike rental place and walk down to Pier 34 for our night tour of Alcatraz prison!  The only way out to the island is via ferry which is a fun way to travel.

Alcatraz is a national park complete with ranger led programs but the star of the show here was the audio tour which guides you around the prison into the mess hall and cell-blocks describing the daily life of inmates and some of the most notorious events of the prisons history with sound effects and stories told by actual inmates.  It allows you to tune out all the other people around you and really focus on what life would have been like there.  Such a great experience.

The ferry ride back to the city was beautiful and was a great way to end the tour.

We took an uber to a little cocktail and small bites bar to end the day The special for the evening was a Vieux Carre, the cocktail Lonni had made us in Portland on a whim.  Nice.

 

Day 29: San Francisco

Nothing on the docket today other than washing some clothes then riding out to the Mission District for some shopping.  This is another one of those hip parts of town where a sketchy area is being "reclaimed" by trendy shops and restaurants but it had some really neat stuff that can't be found elsewhere.  

We bought a couple odds and ends and kinda meandered down the main road until we found ourselves and a nice little park in the Hayes Valley(where Full House was shot) when we noticed an interesting ice cream shop.  As we walked in we found that they make ice cream to order using liquid nitrogen and cream from Petaluma, a place we had passed through on Hwy 1 on the way to San Fran.  We had to get some and it was delicious.

After hitting a couple more shops we caught an Uber back to the hotel to get ready for our one big night on the town.  We had reservations at Liholiho Yacht Club for dinner. Its is not an actual yacht club, but it is maybe the most sought after reservation in San Francisco right now and we had made reservations the day they became available months ago.  

It was worth the trouble because this place was dynamite top to bottom.  The story behind the place is that the owner is from Hawaii and he and his friends used to wheel a setup out to the beaches where they would cook and make drinks for local beach-goers and basically just party.  They called themselves the Liholiho Yacht Club.  The centerpiece of the restaurant is an enormous and absolutely beautiful picture of owners mother which really captures the vibe of the restaurant and its food.

 After some excellent cocktails we had tuna poke on nori crackers, poppyseed steamed buns with beef tongue and kimchi, shrimp and house-made spam fried rice,  and dinosaur ribs(beef) with a spicy kimchi bbq sauce.  The whole meal was out of this world.  

We had started the night off with some drinks and pinball earlier and after the cocktails we were dancing around to the 90's hip-hop and pop they had been playing all night.  We even had some of the staff dancing.  We finished up the meal with coffee and their signature desert which is called "Baked Hawaii"  Its a vanilla chiffon cake wrapped around homemade pineapple ice cream and then flash baked to a crispy exterior.  Its almost like a meringue but has a marshmallow like consistency.  Freaking delicious and a great way to end the best meal of the trip. We even got a chance to thank the owner/chef for an awesome experience!!!

 

 

Day 27: Jedediah to San Francisco

Day 27 Jedediah to San Francisco

Left Jedediah Smith with an ultimate destination of San Francisco, but intent on doing the entire stretch on California's famed Highway 1, which infamously twists and curves along the steep coastal cliffs.  This was easily the twistiest road we've ever been on...never staying straight for more than maybe 30 yards during the stretch that crosses the coastal mountains to reach the seaside cliffs.

We wound our way down the 1 pretty leisurely, stopping at scenic turnoffs and a couple little towns.  Its pretty sparse country in this neck of the woods and we didn't leave the coast the entire 6 hour stretch down.  Its interesting to watch the changes in the landscape as you move south.  

After  6 hours of windiness we decided to take our trip inland for the last little stretch right before the Golden Gate Bridge.  My sister, Erika, had warned us that the crossing the Golden Gate requires a toll and that she thought she had gotten a ticket while crossing it, but we couldn't remember exactly what the deal was so we crossed it but couldn't find anywhere to pay the toll, ohh well, guess we'll get a ticket too we thought (found out that we could pay up to 48 hours after we crossed, which we did).  We bickered about whose fault it was but little did we know that this would set the tone for the absolute nightmare scenario that was about to occur when entering San Fran.

As we entered the city the traffic picked up slowly....we're thinking oh this isn't so bad....and then we entered the downtown area.  This area is like most downtown areas except way way worse.  Its night time, Its packed full of pedestrians at every crosswalk, every street is a one-way, there are people double parked with emergency flashers in the middle of lanes, drivers are aggressive, ALL street parking spaces are taken...often inches between car bumpers, and add to that the infamous hills of San Francisco that feel like they're 45 degrees and you're going up a freaking roller-coaster.  Luckily our hotel offers "temporary" parking at the door to unload.  "We'll regroup there and make a plan" we think.  We get to the hotel....no dice....spaces taken. So we drive around scanning for parking garages, keeping in mind the Seattle nightmare with the roof rack clearance.  We pass on a couple that we'd never make it into and finally find a place.  At this point we're both starting to get pretty flustered because we've probably been driving around the downtown area for 15 minutes.  A middle aged Italian gentleman approaches and asks us how many nights as we sit on a 30 degree incline into the parking garage.  We tell him 3 nights, he thinks for a second and punches on his phone calculator and shows us $120.  40 bucks a night is pretty standard and we'd probably pay 60 to get settled so he tells us to follow.  I remember taking off that we're on an incline and so as not to roll back I kind of gun it......to bad the van is in reverse and we freaking fly backwards about 10 ft almost onto the street before slamming on the brakes.  Embarrassing.  We get to the top and stop, look around, and park in the middle of a smashed in group of cars and the guy asks for the keys.  We realize that there are no dedicated parking places, they move them in an out as people ask for their cars.  This is starting to feel pretty sketchy at this point so we bail fast.

Ugg....back into the traffic.  Keep in mind that when I say NO street parking I mean NO street parking, so stopping to catch your breath is absolutely not an option unless you want to put on your flashers and stop in the middle of a lane. Jeez.  We drive around blocks again....at this point I want out of the van ASAP.  We duck into another parking garage......this looks promising.....   NOPE DENIED.  The van won't fit any further into the garage with the roof rack on it.  We decide to try the hotel temporary parking again. GLORY HALLELUJAH ITS OPEN.  We dive into the spot and catch our breaths.  At this point its just good to be able to not have to drive in this hellish place.  I could have smoked a cigarette like 8 ft long at this point.  

Ok, so this reprieve is only temporary....what to do now?  We tell the hotel clerk about our woes and he says the hotel has an underground parking lot, but its restricted by vehicle width so he'll need to measure the van.  So, we head out to the street with a tape measure and roughly measure it out.  He says he thinks it will be ok, but I'm not convinced.  Something in his voice seems unsure.  So, he opens up a wooden door next to the hotel lobby entrance and reveals to us what looks like the entrance to a dungeon.  First of all its another 45 degree hill and its got EXTREMELY narrow brick walls and its dark as hell.  Gee what a great choice.  Take a dive into the hobbit sized dungeon and chance getting stuck or back out into the non-stop hell-ride of San Fran downtown.  "Its your call bro, but you'll need to fold your mirrors in" says the clerk.  Thanks bro......thanks a LOT......  

After some eyeballing and deliberation we decide its worth a shot.  This is how desperate we are to avoid going back out in the streets.  Steph goes to the bottom of the dungeon to help guide and I mount up on the steed ready to take that sweet ride into oblivion.  First of all, the entrance has to be SO EXACT that the clerk recommends I wait until the light changes and swing out across all three lanes and back, in order to line it up properly.  @$#@@#%.  I do it and I hit it right up on the money.  This was the easy part because now I'm on a very steep incline thinking there's no way this is fitting through here...but now I'm committed.  I decide the way to do this is to just look straight down out of the drivers window at the front left tire and keep it less than an inch away from the curb.  The incline is so steep that barely letting off the brake moves the van forward immediately and the narrowest part is, of course, near the bottom of the hill.  So I inch it down like this.   "STOP!!!!!" I hear Steph yell.  "You're running out of room on the right!!!".  Well, that's interesting because this left tire is literally less than an inch from this curb.  "Straighten up the right tire" says Steph.  I do so and try to inch down again, except this time something feels off.  I let the brake up but we don't move.  The sinking feeling hits my stomach immediately as I realize the rubber of both front tires is now pinched between the curbs.  I ask Steph to look and see but the dungeon entrance is so narrow that she can't see either tire.  The walls are 4 inches from both sides of the van, so I can't even open either door nor can Steph even THINK about helping me back out because she can't get by the van.  Shiiiiiiiittttt, we're freakin stuck.  I'm going to have to crawl out the back door of the van and have someone pull us out of here.  This is what was running through my head.  

Its time to pull the plug on this operation.   Time to try to  back out.   As to not get pinched worse I put it in reverse and gave it some gas before releasing the brake.  Nothing, we don't move.   I'm going to have to gun it......but I have to keep the steering wheel so completely straight so as to not scrape the entire side of the van down the wall.  Ohh well, here goes nothing.  I have to halfway floor it to get that van moving and when it does I just keep the peddle to the metal and hope for the best.  SUCCESS!!!!! I feel the back tire come over the top of the hill!! Unfortunately, If someone would  have been crossing the sidewalk at the entrance I probably would have ran them over and been arrested for vehicular homicide.  Ohh well, back into the hotel temporary parking space.  At this point I'm dripping with sweat and trying not to completely lose it. Screw this, we're unpacking the roof rack, taking it off the van, storing it in the garage and taking this van back to the parking garage and being done with it.  And that's exactly what we did.  Unpacked the roof rack right there in the middle of the sidewalk.  What a nightmare.  In the end it took us over one and a half hours to park.  Too wired to go to sleep and pretty hungry we decided to get a couple slices of pizza and a well deserved beer before hitting the sack and trying to forget about what we just went through.

Our hotel

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Day 25-26: Redwoods

Got up later this morning to head out to Jedediah Smith Redwood state park which contains some of the largest trees known to man.  We lounged around camp and so didn't get started until 11:30.  We stopped off in Coos Bay to get some fresh seafood to cook at camp.

The drive along the Oregon coast was gorgeous making for a nice, easy drive.

Along the way The Steed picked up a thorn in her hoof so we had to make a short pit stop to have it doctored.

We got to camp late in the day, so there wasn't really much to do.  On top of that Brett was pretty sick to his stomach, having decided it was a good idea to get a plate of fried oysters earlier in the day.  We were also both really feeling the trip wearing us down. Almost at the one month mark, if there was a time we both might have decided to pack it up and go home, this would have been it.  The pacific northwest is beautiful, but it is also cold and very damp.  40 degree nights and 60 degree days, often cloudy and misty, can start to wear you down after camping in it for long stretches.  We went to bed early to try and start fresh the next morning.

Day 2
Woke up to a very nice surprise this morning.  Redwoods is bear country again and they take campsite cleanliness very seriously.  So seriously that they post signs on all the picnic tables directing campers to keep their sites "Crumb Clean".  Well, this is what Mr. Raccoon thinks about your "Crumb Clean" stance park service.

It appears as though the raccoon may have had corn for dinner last night.

It appears as though the raccoon may have had corn for dinner last night.

This pic is also a great visual representation of how we felt the night before.  This morning we felt better, but hadn't fully recovered just yet so we had breakfast and set out to explore the Redwoods.  These trees really have to be seen in person to get any idea of their actual size.  The scale just cannot be captured in a picture, but we tried.

How many faces can you count in this evil tree of death?

 

Still feeling kind of crappy after the hike we decided maybe what we needed was just to lay around beside the gorgeous Smith River.  We were right about that.  We laid by the river for a couple hours and Brett even took a dip in the cold water.  It was so refreshing and really got us back to the right state of mind.  

We went back to camp, opened a bottle of wine and grilled one amazing seafood dinner while listening to Fleet Foxes and Lana Del Ray.

It was *almost* like being at home which was really, really nice and honestly just what we needed.  We ate, drank and wound down by the fire with Sigur Ros' Elipses album playing all the way through.  There was not a better record in existence for that moment.  We slept hard that night.